Sorry folks, he was never even here. Yes, I mean Kipling. The man that made us crazy about this place – the road to Mandalay. The story of sailors on the steamboats on the 700 kiolmeter long ride on the Irrawaddy. Kipling wrote about Mandalay and a pagoda, but the pagoda was in the southern colonial city of Moulmein. Emma Larkin destroys this myth in her book, Finding George Orwell in Burma. Somerset Maugham adored the place though, a sunset by the old wooden palace and its surrounding moat was such a breathtaking experience that he hardly thought he could survive it. The palace was destroyed during a fire in the second world war.
Come you back to Mandalay
Where the old Flotilla lay
Some places are their names
Like Somerset Maugham concluded, Mandalay is really its name. Artists like Fred Sinatra,hear him sing Kiplings poem here , and Robin Williams made sure the name continues to be legendary. The name Mandalay has its origins from the Buddhist mandala – a religious diagram. Mandalay – the auspicious city. Other than that, here is dusty, noisy, and busy with motorbikes. You can feel the presence of China and India, and the trade between these countries.
Like Somerset Maugham concluded, Mandalay is really its name. Artists like Fred Sinatra,hear him sing Kiplings poem here , and Robin Williams made sure the name continues to be legendary. The name Mandalay has its origins from the Buddhist mandala – a religious diagram. Mandalay – the auspicious city. Other than that, here is dusty, noisy, and busy with motorbikes. You can feel the presence of China and India, and the trade between these countries.
Old capital
Just like many of these “second most important cities” in Asia though, Mandalay carries a history of a forgotten kingdom, a tradition and a pride. It is like the city has some kind of secret that wont be revealed. Mandalay ceased to be the capital in 1885 when the British moved the capital to what they called Rangoon(todays Yangon). Only two Burmese kings ruled the country from here, king Mingdon and king Thibaw.
Reasons to go there
Behind the modern facade there are reasons to come here. Check out the worlds longest teak bridge U Bein 1,2 kilometer long and 200 years old. It is located in the premises of the old capital of Amarapura. Don’t miss the sunset at 230 meter high Mandalay Hill, and make sure to see the wooden monastery of Shwenandaw that was once one of the inner chambers of the old royal palace.
Taking a walk along the moat is interesting, as well as visiting the street where the stonemasons carve in marble. Bring your own mask to protect against the dust though, but not many of the workers wore any protection what so ever. Emphysema must be a huge problem in these quarters.
We stayed at Mandalay Hill Resort, where we enjoyed some drinks in Kipling bar and where we were close to many of the attractions around Mandalay Hill. The resort also has a very impressive swimming pool.
See the full text of Kiplings poem at Daypoems.net .
© Text: Per Sundberg
© Photos: Jan Friman and Per Sundberg
© Photos: Jan Friman and Per Sundberg
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